France, circa 1750
Silk, metallic strands, green silk velvet, skin
Single-layered and slip stitch embroidery
Provenance
- This purse bears the arms of the dauphine of France, Marie-Josèphe de Saxe (1731-1767): left ecu (quartered to the one and last of France to two and three gold, right ecu (quartered to the crested azure dolphin and eared of gules right, quartered of Poland on the whole fascé of gold and sand of eight pieces with the crancelin debruising on the overall which is of Saxony).
Similar example
- Gambling purse with the arms of Madame Henriette, first half of the 18th century, red velvet embroidered with silver (H. 8.5 cm / D. 9.5 cm), château de Versailles, (Inv. V 48 10)
The sides of the purse receive an alternation of twenty baluster patterns with different designs. Each of them uses a baluster pattern composed of a succession of floral and plant elements with a circular motif integrating the baluster in the upper or lower part depending on the model. Each baluster is underlined by a twisted yellow silk thread.
A braid overlaps the circumference of the purse, overflowing on both the vellum and the velvet. The central decoration of the bottom of the purse receives decoration: the crown of the dolphin, a double ecu of the Dauphiné and of Saxony resting on a cartouche.
Material and techniques
Ecus : blue, red and black silk strands embroidered in a slanted pattern for the azure background. Furniture and pieces, coating of silver threads held in pairs by silk strands forming a bridge.
Crown: embroidery of silver strands. Flowerets and gemstones, strands of green and orange silk at the stitches.
Cartouche: embroidery in relief of silver strands, cannetillas and sequins, coating of silver strands.
Sides: silver strands coating, sequins and cannetillas
The cords are made from several twists of yellow silk strands and silver yarn. Unlike the other models, we will notice the cord which marks the decoration. The quality brought to the execution of these royal purses is thus more striking.